We all love cucumbers. They are especially tasty in spring, because during the winter the body yearned for vitamins, and the aroma of a fresh cucumber seems simply delicious. And in order to get greens as early as possible, you should prepare for sowing seeds for seedlings from the middle of winter.
You need to germinate purchased or collected seeds with your own hands, disinfect the seedling substrate, wash the containers in which you will grow the seedlings.
In our article, you will read about:
Preparing for the new season, it is necessary to put in order gardening equipment, replenish stocks of fertilizers, seed and planting material, and also decide on the dates of sowing seeds for seedlings. We have already posted material on the site about:
In this article, we will tell you everything about growing cucumber seedlings: when to sow cucumbers for seedlings, how to grow cucumber seedlings, and when planting cucumber seedlings in open ground.
In order to know on which days of which month it is better to sow cucumbers for seedlings, you need to refer to the lunar sowing calendar.
Seedlings of cucumbers in 2021 can be sown on such days:
Remember that if the sowing of cucumbers for seedlings occurs on an unfavorable day, this will affect the health of the seedlings, and the further growth and development of the seedlings, as well as the quantity and quality of the crop. Therefore, planting cucumbers for seedlings should be carried out precisely on a day favorable for this activity on the waxing moon.
An important role in growing seedlings is played by the composition of the soil and its preparation for sowing. The soil for cucumber seedlings should be loose, moisture and breathable. Avoid substrates that contain a lot of peat - it is too fat for cucumbers.
If you decide to prepare the substrate yourself, then use one of our recipes:
If the pH of the soil is not so important for adult cucumbers, then the seedlings react painfully to increased acidity, which can be neutralized with lime materials. Self-prepared soil mixture must be disinfected - calcined in the oven or spilled with a strong solution of potassium permanganate. And do not forget to fertilize the substrate. - 6 g of urea, 10 g of superphosphate, 6 g of potassium sulfate and 2 g of magnesium sulfate per 10 kg of soil mixture. Ready-made store-bought soils do not need nutritional supplements and sterilization.
In the photo: Seedling sprouts of cucumbers
After the substrate for the cucumber seedlings has been disinfected and filled with fertilizers, cover the container with the soil with foil and put it in a warm place for two weeks to stimulate the formation of bacteria necessary for the nutrition and growth of the seedlings.
Cucumber seeds also need pre-sowing treatment. First, they need to be dipped in a three percent solution of sodium chloride at room temperature - empty seeds will float up after a while, and full-grain ones will settle. Then the seeds, washed in running water, suitable for sowing, are kept for 30 minutes in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, after which they are washed and germinated in a damp cloth at a temperature of 25-30 ºC for 2-3 days. When the seeds have white sprouts 3-4 mm long (no longer!), They are ready for sowing for seedlings.
Since the seedlings of pumpkin crops do not tolerate picking well, they sow cucumber seedlings in separate containers - one hatched seed or two non-germinated seeds in each. Plastic or peat-humus cups with drainage holes filled with a disinfected substrate are used as containers. The cups are filled with the substrate so that about 1 cm to the edge remains empty, and the germinated seeds, very carefully, so as not to break fragile sprouts, are immersed in holes 1.5-2 cm deep and sealed. Then the cups are placed on a pallet, watered, covered with glass or foil and kept at a temperature of 23-28 ºC in anticipation of germination, moistening the substrate from a sprayer twice a week.
You can grow cucumber seedlings in peat tablets.
The advantages of peat tablets are as follows:
Tablets for cucumber seedlings should be made of fine peat, neutral reaction, with a diameter of at least 42 mm - seedlings with a smaller diameter quickly outgrow, and you will have to transplant them. Peat washers are placed in a tray or tray and poured with warm water for 10-15 minutes to swell, then the excess water is drained. Cucumber seeds are placed in the depressions in the center of each tablet, sprinkled with peat mixture, after which the tablets are placed in a common container, covered with a transparent film, placed on a warm surface and kept awaiting shoots at a temperature of 23-28 ºC.
In the photo: Grown up cucumber seedlings
Good seedlings of cucumbers are also obtained when grown in cassettes with large cylindrical cells - the cassette does not take up much space, so you can save electricity when supplementing the seedlings. Before sowing, the cassettes are washed in a strong solution of potassium permanganate, after which the cells are filled with a disinfected wet substrate, into which cucumber seeds are sown to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. Crops are covered with foil and kept at the optimum temperature for seed germination - 23-28 ºC.
Since the soil in cassettes dries out faster than in one common container, you will have to moisten the substrate more often, but the problem can be solved by adding Bio Master Gel to it, which retains moisture and creates comfortable conditions for the development of seedlings.
Some people think that cassettes are too expensive, but they are made of polystyrene, so they can be used many times. For greater convenience, you can purchase cassettes on a pallet or even in a large box with a transparent lid, which will successfully replace glass and plastic wrap for you. However, when the time comes to transplant the grown seedlings into a large container, it will not be easy to do this, since cucumbers have thin, easily torn roots, and if you do not have experience and dexterity, it is better to grow seedlings in tablets or in peat pots.
To grow cucumber seedlings in a greenhouse, you first need to prepare compost or manure beds, which gardeners call "hot". How to do this is described in detail in the article already posted on our website. Let us only recall that fresh manure or compost is laid in a layer on a high bed, a layer of fertile disinfected soil with a height of at least 25 cm is placed on top of it and watered abundantly. Then they start sowing: no more than 4 bushes are placed on each square meter, throwing 2 seeds in one hole. Seeds are not germinated before sowing, but only treated in a saline solution, and then in a strong solution of potassium permanganate. The seeded and watered bed is covered with a film, pulling it over the dug metal arcs.
In the photo: The first true leaves on seedlings
Keep in mind that the temperature of the "hot" bed can be so high that it can be burned if not careful. Watch the intensity of the sun and the temperature outside, otherwise, under the film, the shoots will simply burn out from the heat.
For a novice gardener who is not confident in his talents, it is better to buy seedlings for the first time. However, you need to know which seedlings you can buy and which you shouldn't. Seedlings ready for planting in the ground should be no more than 20 cm in height, and the stem of the seedlings should be with a pencil or slightly thinner - if the stem of a larger diameter, most likely, the seedlings were overfed with nitrogen, which means that the bushes will grow well, but the ovaries there will be little for them.
The leaves of cucumber seedlings should be developed, bright green in color. Any stains, brown patches, or plaque can be signs of illness. The finished seedling should have 4-5 leaves, and the presence of withered cotyledonous leaves indicates that the seedlings were poorly looked after.
In general, to be afraid of wolves - do not go to the forest, and if you decide to grow cucumbers, then start by sowing seeds for seedlings, because there is nothing complicated about this, especially if you know in advance that the root system of cucumbers suffers greatly during transplantation. That is why we recommend sowing cucumbers in peat tablets - when roots sprout from under the net of mature seedlings, seedlings can be transplanted directly with a tablet into a peat pot without damaging the roots. If you buy seedlings from a nursery or from the market, then planting outdoors will almost certainly damage the roots of several seedlings.
Photo: Seedlings of cucumbers, ready for planting
While waiting for the first shoots, the substrate is kept in a slightly damp state by watering it from a sprinkler twice a week. As soon as shoots appear, move the crops as close to the light as possible, but most likely you will still need to arrange additional lighting for the seedlings, or at least install mirrors on the side and top of the seedlings that will reflect the light onto the seedlings.
As for the temperature of the content, then, as we have already written many times, before the emergence of shoots, it should be at the level of 23-28 ºC, and when the seeds begin to germinate, it is advisable to lower the temperature to 20-22 ºC. After the mass emergence of seedlings, the optimum temperature for the development of seedlings on a sunny day is 21-23 ºC, on a cloudy day - 19-20 ºC, and at night - 18-20 ºC. If you do not have the ability to regulate the temperature, then at least try to create conditions under which it will not rise above 25 ºC during the day and drop below 15 ºC at night. The seedlings need regular air exchange, but care must be taken to ensure that the seedlings do not end up in a draft during airing.
As soon as the seeds sprout, it is desirable to moisten the substrate little by little, as the top layer dries up - with this watering, a strong root system will develop in the seedlings. Water the seedlings once or twice a week with warm water that has been settled for two days - the water temperature should not be colder than 22 ºC, otherwise the seedlings may die. However, you should not boil water for irrigation, because when boiling, oxygen comes out of it - just put the water to settle in a warm place. Magnetic water works well on seedlings. When watering, the drops should not fall on the leaves of the seedlings.
In the photo: Planted cucumber seedlings
In winter and early spring, heating devices work in the room, drying the air, and the required humidity for cucumber seedlings is 75-80%, therefore it is advisable to sometimes spray the seedlings with water at room temperature.
In the pots where both seeds have sprouted, you need to leave a stronger seedling, and cut the other with scissors, but in no case pull out, as it is possible to damage the root system of a more developed plant.
Seedling cucumbers from seeds before planting in open or closed ground needs two or three additional dressings. First time feeding is introduced into the soil after the appearance of a real leaf, and it consists of 7 g of ammonium nitrate, 8 g of potassium sulfate and 15 g of superphosphate, dissolved in 10 liters of water. It would be nice to add a little organic matter to the solution of mineral fertilizers, for example, a mullein diluted in water 1: 4, or fermented bird droppings, which must first be diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 7.
Second, optional feeding is carried out in the development phase of the second leaf, and the third - two weeks after the first. For these dressings for the same amount of water, you will need a double dose of mineral fertilizers. In addition to root, cucumber seedlings are shown and top dressing with a solution of microelements on the leaves - they stimulate the development of seedlings and increase their resistance to diseases.
When cucumber shoots appear, they will need a lot of light to develop. In March and April, there will be enough southern windowsill and mirrors located on the sides and top of the seedlings, but in January and February the daylight hours are not long enough, so it will need to be increased by artificial lighting. In the first 2-3 days, the seedlings should be in the light around the clock, for the next two weeks, before the leaves close, they need light for 16 hours, then for two weeks a fourteen hour daylight will be enough, and the last days before planting on the garden, the seedlings should be in the light at least 12 hours a day.
Lighting is especially important in the early days: if you do not give the seedlings the right amount of light at this time, you can get such a nuisance as elongated cucumber seedlings with subsequent "surprises" in the form of improper development, poor health and low yield.
Photo: Seedlings of cucumbers in individual pots
To organize additional lighting, it is best to use phytolamps, high-pressure sodium lamps with a built-in mirror reflector or LED lamps, placing them above the box with seedlings at a height of 20 cm. However, first you need to calculate how many lamps you need for one square meter of crops, otherwise your efforts can turn out to be insufficient.
If you grow seedlings in a common container, sooner or later the moment will come when the seedlings will have to dive into a separate container. This is not an easy task, since the root system of cucumbers is fragile. That is why it is better to dive seedlings at the age of 5-7 days, in the phase of development of cotyledon leaves. Plants need to be transplanted in containers with a volume of at least 700-800 ml.
Fill the drainage pots with soil and let it settle. The day before the dive, water the soil in the pots well, and on the day of the dive, water the seedlings.The sprouts are taken out of the box along with a lump of earth, trying not to damage the roots, moved into a deep hole made in advance in cups so that the hypocotal knee remains above the surface, fill the hole with soil, compact it and water it again so that no air remains in the roots. The first time after the dive, maintain high air humidity and temperature around the seedlings at the level of 18-20 ºC, protecting them from drafts.
We are often asked why the cucumber seedlings turn yellow. There are several reasons for this phenomenon:
As you can see, you can easily get rid of any of these reasons, but it is better to simply not allow them to appear.
Cucumber seedlings are pulled out mainly for two reasons - due to insufficient lighting or too high a room temperature. Try to follow our recommendations throughout the seedling period, and your seedlings will be strong and healthy. But if suddenly the seedlings are stretched out, do not panic, eliminate the cause, and the seedlings will quickly recover.
In the photo: Fake seedling leaves
This, unfortunately, is also a frequent occurrence, the cause of which may be fungal diseases, root rot and black leg. Usually, a black leg appears with regular waterlogging of the substrate against a background of high room temperatures - the base of the stem begins to rot, causing the seedlings to lodge. Affected specimens must be removed, and healthy specimens must be seated in separate cups with a sterile substrate. As a preventive measure, it is best to add wood ash to the substrate before sowing.
Signs of root rot appear even when it is too late to do anything: the seedlings suddenly stop growing and developing, wither and die. The fungus is activated when the substrate is watered with cold water or when crops are kept on a cold surface.
Cucumber seedlings are also ill with other diseases, including powdery mildew, fusarium wilting, peronosporosis and viral cucumber mosaic, but with proper maintenance and good care, cucumber seedlings acquire resistance to any disease.
Seedlings of cucumbers are planted 25-27 days after germination: in closed ground, that is, in film, polycarbonate or glass greenhouses - April 15-20, in open ground under a film - May 10-15, and in open ground without shelter - in early June. The time frame can fluctuate, the main condition is the soil warmed up to 15 ºC. Before planting in the garden, it is necessary to carry out hardening procedures with the seedlings, for which in 10-12 days they begin to be taken out for some time in the open air under the sun's rays, daily increasing the duration of the procedure. When the seedlings can be outside around the clock, they are ready to be transplanted into the garden.
Photo: Growing cucumber seedlings in cassettes
The soil on the site should be loose and fertile, so it is necessary to fertilize it in the fall, and in the spring, before planting, you only need to loosen the soil on the site. If for any reason you did not succeed in preparing the site in the fall, you will have to apply fertilizer directly into the holes when planting.
Planting of seedlings is carried out on a cloudy day or in the afternoon - from 17 to 20 hours. The holes in the garden bed are staggered at such a distance that there are four plants per 1 m². The pits are spilled with water, manure is placed in them (if the site has not been manured in advance), sprinkle it with soil, carefully plant a seedling in the hole, trying not to damage its roots, cover the hole with earth, compact it and pour at least a liter of warm water under each plant. When the water is absorbed, the site is mulched with straw.
Do not plant cucumbers where beets, zucchini, squash, squash, or squash were grown last year.
In order not to injure the seedlings during transplanting to the garden, it is better to sow seeds in separate containers. But if the seedlings are grown on a large scale, then you have to improvise with the container: you can use cups of yogurt or sour cream or eggshells, which can be collected throughout the year.
The shell must be without a top, cleanly washed from the inside and dry. Fill the shell with moistened sterile soil and dip the cucumber seed into it. Arrange the shells on one pallet and cover with plastic wrap. As soon as shoots appear, remove the film and care for the seedlings in the usual way.
Before transplanting to the garden bed, carefully remove the bottom of the shell and plant the seedling in the hole along with the shell.
Growing seedlings without soil allows you to save not only the substrate, but also space. It is also the best way to protect early seedlings from blackleg.
Spread a plastic tape on the table the width of a toilet paper tape, lay several layers of toilet paper on it, saturate them with Epin's solution and, stepping back 1 cm from the edge, spread the seeds along the length of the tape at the required distance from each other. Put a couple more layers of toilet paper on the seeds, moisten them with a growth stimulant solution, and put another plastic tape on top. Now roll this "sandwich" into a roll, fix it so that it does not unfold, and place it in a transparent container, filled with water to a height of 1.5 cm so that the edge with the seeds is above the container. Place a clear plastic bag over the dishes and place in a warm place.
Several such rolls can be placed in one container. Make sure there is water at the bottom at all times. As soon as shoots appear, transfer the seedlings to the light.
You can accelerate the germination of cucumber seeds in the following way. Wrap the disinfected seeds in damp gauze, put the package in a plastic bag and place it in a warm place for a day, for example, on a battery. After 24 hours, unfold the cheesecloth and you will see tiny sprouts appear on the seeds. Fill small cups with moist, sterile soil, place a seed in each (be careful not to break off the seed), sprinkle the seeds with soil and lightly compact the surface. Cover crops with a black plastic bag and place in a bright place. After a day or three, cotyledon leaves will appear, and after a few more days you can transplant the seedlings into a greenhouse. However, it is better to wait with the transplant until the moment when two true leaves are formed on the seedlings.
Sometimes the cucumber seedlings planted on the greenhouse garden suddenly begin to dry out, and some seedlings fall as if they had been cut down. One gets the impression that some insect is damaging the roots of the seedlings. As a rule, these suspicions are confirmed: bears, wireworms or slugs are found in the soil. They get into the greenhouse along with the garden soil. The larvae of these pests can doze in the ground, but with warming they wake up and look for food for themselves. Bears and wireworms are especially active after watering, when the ground becomes loose.
Slugs also hide in the ground during the day, and with the onset of night they crawl out and feed on the leaves of seedlings, leaving large holes on them. They also eat tender stems of seedlings.
To prevent this from happening, before planting, spill each hole with 2-3 liters of boiling water, and then water the seedlings with infusion of onion peels. If traditional methods of protection do not work, you will have to use chemicals.
When forming cucumber bushes, it is necessary to remove side shoots - stepchildren. But if you want to eat cucumbers until the very frost, do not throw away your stepchildren, but use them as seedlings. But first they need to be rooted. Cut off the top of the stepson with two leaves and place it in the water. If the leaves are too large, cut the leaf blades in half. In about a week, the stepson will grow white roots, and he will be ready to be transplanted into a glass of soil or immediately to the garden, but in the open field, you need to protect him from direct sun for the first days.
This method is good because it saves money, time and effort: when you pinch each bush, you will get several future seedlings at once. The stepsons take root pretty quickly.
Yeast promotes the growth of fruits, and among the greens there will be practically no hollow ones. Stimulates this fertilization and the formation of ovaries with significantly fewer barren flowers. In addition, the seedlings have increased resistance to fungal diseases.
In a greenhouse, seedlings can be fed with yeast twice: the first time - a week after transplanting, but before that it is advisable to add nitrogen fertilization; the second time - after applying phosphorus fertilizers.
Dissolve 10 g of dry yeast in 10 liters of water, add 5 tablespoons of sugar, half a liter of chicken manure extract and half a liter of wood ash. Insist the solution for a day, then strain and bring to 10 liters with water.
Instead of a yeast solution, you can use a mash based on black bread, or you can simply spread black crackers under the bushes and then water the soil with warm water.
Powdery mildew does not affect the fruits, but they become smaller and acquire a bitter taste. In addition, peronosporosis leads to a decrease in yield by almost half. The disease develops rapidly, therefore, it is necessary to deal with it with the detection of the first signs, that is, with the appearance of white bloom on the seedlings.
For the prevention and destruction of infection at an early stage, it is advisable to treat the soil with a biological product Alirin-B. At the later stages of the development of peronosporosis, the drugs Raek, Bayleton, Topaz and Tilt are used, and after two weeks, the seedlings are re-treated with a change in the drug: the pathogen shows high resistance.
From folk remedies in the fight against powdery mildew, a solution of 1 bottle of medical iodine in 10 liters of water or a strong pink solution of potassium permanganate is used. Good results are obtained by processing cucumbers with a solution of 50 g of soda ash and 40 g of liquid soap in 10 liters of water.
Cucumber seedlings need warmth, nutrition and moisture for normal development. If the seedlings have suffered a drop in temperature to 10 ⁰C, or if you forget to water or feed them, they will stop growing.
A slowdown in the growth of seedlings after transplanting into a greenhouse can occur for the following reasons:
you have not changed the soil in the beds after the previous season;
seedlings planted too close to each other;
you are feeding incorrectly;
the irrigation regime is broken;
too cold nights.
In the open field, seedlings stop developing if the transplant was carried out with a delay. In this case, you need to continue to look after them and wait for them to take root well.
Elongated seedlings can be dug in: undermine the ground near the seedling, put part of the stem in the hole, sprinkle it with earth, and it will soon take root. If the planting is too dense, the seedlings need to be planted by burying part of the stem into the soil.
If the seedlings have just begun to stretch, you can simply pour a little dry heated soil into the container, but at the same time it is necessary to eliminate the reason why the seedlings began to stretch.
You can stop the overgrowth process by lowering the temperature to 15 ⁰C. Take out the seedlings in the daytime on a bright cool loggia, and bring them into the house at night.
You can slow down the pulling of seedlings by pinching them over the second real leaf.
If, when wilting, the stems of some seedlings in the root area become thinner, then this is a sign of a black leg. Lying down plants must be removed along with a lump of earth, and the soil should be shed with a solution of potassium permanganate, soaking only the top layer. After this, do not water the seedlings for a while.
Sometimes seedlings wither due to the fact that their roots are freezing: if the soil temperature drops below 16 ⁰C, the root system stops absorbing food and moisture, which leads to withering of the seedlings.
Cucumber seedlings can wither if they grow in old soil: cucumbers are very capricious in this regard. Be sure to change at least the top layer of soil 5-6 cm thick on the beds before transplanting seedlings into the greenhouse.
And, of course, do not allow the soil to dry out: seedlings, like adult cucumbers, grow well only in moist soil.
If the disease has already manifested itself, it is impossible to cure diseased plants. Remove seedlings with signs of disease along with a clod of earth and spill the hole with a strong solution of potassium permanganate. Keep a close eye on healthy seedlings and immediately get rid of those showing mosaic symptoms.
This viral disease can only be fought with preventive measures:
grow mosaic-resistant cucumber varieties;
decontaminate the soil and seeds before sowing;
do not sow seeds too thick;
water the seedlings only with warm water;
prevent the appearance of weeds and aphids - the main vector of viral diseases.
Sections: Pumpkin Garden plants Plants on O Growing seedlings Cucumbers
All gardeners love to grow cucumbers, as these vegetables take pride of place on every table. The crop can be sown in open ground directly with seeds or grown through seedlings. In any case, in order to get a plentiful and high-quality harvest of cucumbers, it is necessary to take into account some factors: climatic conditions in the region, crop variety, growing method and recommendations of the Lunar calendar. This article will tell you in detail about all the nuances and help answer the question - when are the most favorable days for planting cucumbers for seedlings in April 2021.
The process of preparing seeds for sowing consists of several stages, the correct implementation of which affects the quality of future seedlings:
Sorting.Choose large seeds. They are the fullest and will produce the best seedlings. If a small number of seeds need to be sorted, this can be done by hand in a dry state. In case of large quantities, an accurate sorting result can be obtained by dipping the seeds into a weak solution of table salt (50 g per liter of water). As a result, small and light seeds will float, and the best ones will remain at the bottom.
Warming up. It was noticed that in cucumber plants a larger number of female flowers appear, from which ovaries are formed, if at the stage of seed preparation they are heated at a moderate temperature. To do this, it is recommended to keep the seeds at a temperature of about 25 degrees for a month. This can be achieved by placing them near heating appliances. As a result, the seeds will give amicable shoots, fruiting will begin earlier, and the number of barren flowers will decrease.
Disinfection. The seeds are placed in a solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, after which they must be rinsed with clean water. To draw up a solution, use 2 g of potassium permanganate per liter of water.
Soak. Cucumber seeds are often soaked in plain water, but the best solution is to prepare a special nutrient solution. For its preparation, one of the following components is diluted in 1 liter of water: nitrophoska, 1 teaspoon or sifted wood ash, 1 teaspoon or a mixture of 1 teaspoon of liquid mullein and 1 teaspoon of wood ash. It is most advisable to use cloth bags for soaking. The seeds should be in the nutrient solution for about 12 hours. Then they should be removed from the bags and rinsed with clean water. After that, the seeds should be placed in a damp cloth for 1 - 2 days. It is necessary to maintain the moisture content of the fabric and produce additional moisture if necessary. It is important to monitor the seeds to prevent them from germinating. They should only swell slightly and bend a little.
Hardening... To perform this procedure, the seeds are placed in a refrigerator for a day and kept there at a temperature of 1 - 2 degrees. It is recommended to constantly moisten the seeds. For this, you can use both plain water and special nutrient solutions. To prepare the solution, one of the following components is dissolved in 1 liter of water: boric acid, 20 mg zinc sulfate, 300 mg baking soda, 500 g. Another nutrient mixture is also used: potassium nitrate 5 g, magnesium sulfate 0.2 g, superphosphate 10 g.
Excerpt. The seeds are kept at room temperature for about 6 hours.
|Planting Method / Month||March||April||May||June||July|
|Seeds for seedlings||17, 18, 23||13,14||1-6||–||–|
|Sowing seeds and transplanting seedlings into a greenhouse||–||24, 25, 26||2,3,6||1-4, 6-8||2, 6, 10, 24-27|
|Seeds and seedlings in open ground||–||28||12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24, 25, 26||12-13, 22-23, 26-30||2, 6, 10, 24-27|
So, the seeds are selected and prepared for sowing. It's time to sow them. For sowing, a common container filled with ready-made soil or individual cups, cassettes, peat tablets can be used. Over time, the seedlings from the total container will have to dive; cucumbers can be planted from a separate container immediately.
Sowing is carried out in several steps:
Cucumbers are convenient because they germinate quickly in good conditions. If, for some reason, seedlings did not appear, you can re-sow, taking into account all the mistakes or replacing the seeds.
The roots of cucumbers are tender and have numerous branches. During any manipulations with the plant (picking, transplanting), the roots break off, and this harms the development of the plant or leads to its death.
Experienced gardeners allocate optimal containers in which the cucumber seedlings are strong and easy to plant.
It is a pallet with separate cells. There are variations with a water tray or a lid to create a mini greenhouse. The plastic from which the cassettes are made is very thin. When planting, it is easy to cut and remove the plant with an earthy clod.
The disadvantage of such a container: the fragility of the material. It breaks easily when moved
When planted in a permanent place, the seedlings do not need to be removed. The pot is buried in a hole, where after a short time it will begin to decompose. While providing the plant with nutrients.
Disadvantage of growing in peat pots: frequent watering is required as water evaporates quickly through the walls. The way out of this situation is to place containers in a pan with water.
The composition of peat washers is balanced for seed germination.
When moistened, the substrate becomes loose and the seeds sprout quickly and actively.